Fortingall, and Scotland’s Ancient Celtic history

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In foggy conditions like this, the imagination can wonder, and you feel very creative, said John Lennon, a strong lover of Scotland and Scottish nature, where he spent many of his childhood holidays and went back several times later as an adult. There is truth in that statement, and perhaps these romantic, almost supernatural mists that shroud the mountains and lands, are one of the reasons why Scotland is so rich in storytelling culture, and ghosts and mythology and folklore and other such things. And here in Fortingall, and in this blanketing fog, you can really feel it. It’s like something out of Sleepy Hollow.

The fog is hiding the hills and the trees and the road and the few Cotswolds-like-15th-century- cottages in an enclosed world, where the feeling of the past, and that something big happened here, is very tangible. It feels mystical. And to me, some places in Scotland are just not the same without these rolling low clouds and the mist. Glencoe is nowhere near as special or atmospheric. And for sure this place too. Especially around this one-of-a-kind yew tree. You can feel it’s presence. And even perhaps it’s age. And it is old. Very old. Between 3 and 7,000-years-old, the Fortingall Yew is the oldest living thing in Britain. And one of the oldest living things in all of Europe.

This whole area is rich in history; burial cairns and standing stones and remnants of old dwellings are spread out all around, and show that this area was an old spiritual centre, most likely centred around the tree itself. And Scotland’s history is so rich in these places.

Yew trees like this one send out fresh shoots to become new trees, growing extra trunks. Sometimes two trunks join together to form a bigger, thicker tree. A branch can stretch down into the ground and create a sibling. And recently, scientists have even discovered that this one is in the process of changing sex. Recorded as male throughout the centuries, it has started to sprout red berries in Autumn, something only female trees normally do.

Over and over these trees are reborn and start new lives. They were sacred to the Celtic pagans, and were worshipped. They were so special to our ancestors that they used them as temples. Then, when the Christians came, they decided the easiest way to convert the pagans, was to just build the churches and graveyards around these sites and trees like this, and draw away the people. That is one of the reasons why graveyards in Europe almost always have yew trees in them.

The Fortingall Yew is particularly impressive. Not just because of it’s age, or the strong feeling of energy it gives off, but also because of it’s beauty. It’s large thick ancient stalks are twisted and knarled, partly due to damage from vandalisms over the millenniums, and a stone wall now encircles it, and protects it, but it’s huge evergreen foliage blooms and bursts out over the top of it, like it is laughing.  

Still it is going strong, despite chunks of it being hacked off to use for crossbows (the best wood for this and very commonly used for thousands of years for this reason) and as presents to give power to Queens and Kings. Still it is going strong, and may it continue to do so, with any visitors respecting it like it should be, and preserving it for another thousand years.

The unique Crannog Centre, the replica bronze age house built on top of Loch Tay, is nearby at Kenmore. Recently burnt down, but it will thrive again with the plans to build a bigger historical village with perhaps 2 or even 3 crannogs this time. Both the Crannog centre and this special tree are absolutely worth a visit. Especially so at Halloween, my favourite time of the year. When the whole of Perthshire is bathed in beautiful Autumnal colours, and the tree and forests presence is amongst it’s strongest.

The Fortingall Yew is older than any house or castle or even sign of human habitation in Scotland. It was amongst other key parts of our forefathers, and Scotland’s, cultural and spiritual identities and heritage. And may it continue to be for generations to come.

At this time, more than any other, we need to appreciate the significance and specialness of our trees and of nature. And perhaps even learn from them.